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<Gerald>
Posted
I am looking for information about hedge trimming. I know about trimming hedges but need information about best times of the year, impacts of various techniques, rejuvenation, and disease factors. On my campus, I have many linear feet of Caragana arborscens. Also, I have quite a variety of decidous and evergreen shrubs. The shrubs have been neglected over the years. Currently, we are giving much attention on thinning, deadwooding, and rejuvenation. The past practice has been using the shearers for the "prune job". I directed my crew on thinning and deadwooding. I have other influences that want the shrubs sheared after the corrective pruning measures. I would appreciate your input on shrub and hedge care. Thank you, Gerald.
 
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<Tom Dunlap>
Posted
Reply to post by Gerald, on January 24, 2000 at 10:57:39:

You will find more than you need to know about pruning after spending some time in this page.

tom
 
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<JPS>
Posted
Reply to post by Gerald, on January 24, 2000 at 10:57:39:

The rejuvenation question depends on the definition, do you use it to mean heavy thining, partial reduction of the plant or cutting down to the root crown (coppice).

If the plant does not bud out from woody tissue well then 1/3 annual thinning may be recomended (some call renewal pruning). I have found Korean Spicebush survive this best.

Pirvit and Cotoneaster with small internodes and dense gorwth can look good with a partial reduction.

Then of corse you can combine the two, that is "thin out 1/4 of oldest stems and reduce to 2.5 ft so it can be rertrained as a continuouse headge at 3ft."

older plants that would be unbalanced with a thinning or have only a few heavy branches that would be unsightly could be coppiced to "start over". My experiance is that they shoud be taken as close to the grownd as possible, otherwise sprouts with weak unions will break in a strong wind. If the plant is grafted, or doesn't sprout frm thr roots well then burying in bark chip to cover stumps may be desireable.


Some reasons for not shearing. PLants with long internodes will look beter with hand pruning. Hand pruning does not require as much maintinace as a formaly shorn plant. Some time you can maintain with a 2-3yr cycle. most speicies will last longer (be stressed less) by selective hand pruning.

Reasons for shearing. maintain a tight border or screening hedge. A compact shape is desired for the location/type. You cant talk the customer out of it.
 
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<Gerald>
Posted
Reply to post by jps, on January 24, 2000 at 10:57:39:

Thank you for your reply. I found your information to be good. Rejuvenation in my definition means to the root crown or coppice as you called it. Sometimes I prescribe rejuvenation when all other means are impratical. On most of our shrub pruning, I use the 1/4-1/3 method. In our arid climate, I stress common sense with this method. The plant needs as much twig/leaf surface for survival. On Syringa vulgaris, we have used the method of removing the older stems and allowing the younger growth to replenish. Much of the Caragana arborscens is used as a screening hedge. In time, the trunk will enlarge and the canopy of the hedge will deteriate. I see no alternative but for rejuvenation (coppice) when this time comes unless... I find your ideas regarding partial reduction and annual thinning interesting. This would seem to be best used at the beginning or after rejuvenation. Have you used this method? Did it work best with certain plants? Caragana grows well here. Annual growth can be one to two feet or so. This would be a very time consuming method on Caragana. Another reason not to prune would be: the plant will not bloom the next season. Example: Lilacs. Thank you for your input. Gerald
 
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<JPS>
Posted
Reply to post by Gerald, on January 30, 2000 at 14:13:03:


I use it in lue (sp?) of rejuv'ing if the general form and budget will allow it.

First thin the hedge of some (not all) over-mature stems. Then rerduce the larger stems a
shear wont cut by hand, I find i good to cut them at un even hights to add density an aviod the
look of what was done (I know I'm not saing this right). Shear to a hight slightly below that you
wish to maintain it at so next year you are shearing fine tissue.

This works well with any plant that adapts to hedge form.

Not ever seeing Caragana, I'm guessing it has long internodes. Try pick pruning to thin by 1/3
every year. It is actualy faster than shearing because you just throw it on the tarp and dont
have to rake thos little tips up. Then maybe use the powe shear to even out the top. It also
doesnt cut leaves, wich I find unsightly on plants like Viburnum trilobum. Then there are the
sparsely foliaged plants like wygeila (sp?) that look nasty if shorn or if too much mature wood is
alowed to grow. They look much better with an annual thinning. Same with red twig dogwood,
used alot here in WI, if left too long the twig goes grey.

IM(notso)HO, shearing is verymuch overused.
 
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