Hi folks,
I'm new to this tree care thing so bear with me. We bought a 25-gallon Burr oak this past April (2000) and since that time it has gone through two "cycles" of dropped leavess. I would estimate that it dropped roughly 20% of its leaves each time.

The bark seems to be fine (I can't find any cuts, or holes, or insects) but many of the remaining leaves appear burned on the edges. Because we live in Houston and it's so hot here during the summer, my first thought was that the tree was not getting enough water. After several weeks of deep watering and increasing the sprinkler time in that area, I can see no difference. I can't detect any new growth at all (but maybe there shouldn't be any at this time of year?)

This is probably obvious to someone who knows about trees (not me). I've been Internet surfing to no avail. Any help out there?

Reply to post by Joseph Lowe, on August 14, 2000 at 21:36:10:

I am not from your area, but I have included some information about Burr Oak.
From what you say, I would guess that your tree lost leaves due to the stress of root damage and high transpiration rate. This may mean that your tree will make an adjustment between the amount of shoot and root growth it can sustain in the short term. I would caution you not to over-water the tree. A coarse mulch of 2 to 4 inches applied out to the drip line of the tree might help reduce the extremes of temperature in the shallow root zone; be sure not to pile mulch against the trunk, though. I would not prune the tree for the first couple of years, until it is established, and only conservatively after that. If you have a problem with water quality, or if other plants in your yard show similar signs of leaf burn, you might consider asking for local advice on salts and soil acidity. I would resist the urge to put fertilizers on the tree. It it good to consider also whether the tree was planted at the proper depth, as too deep of planting can lead to root crown disease, which can result in disruption of food and water flow between the shoots and roots. Sometimes a wait-and-see approach is better than "doing something". It can take a tree a year or two to become established, even when there are no obvious problems.