I have been purchasing "razor-toothed" saws for small shrub and tree pruning. I have discovered cant files are for sharpening conventional saws. Any suggestions for sharpening razor-toothed saws. Thanks.

Reply to post by Gerald, on January 24, 2000 at 11:25:36:

Look in the various woodworkers catalogs for something called a "feather edge" file. It has a very narrow profile, like a bird feather. They are intended for sharpening very fine pitch dovetail and back saws.

I don't have web addresses by try a search on names like Garrete-Wade, Lee Valley-Veritas, Woodworkers Supply or Woodcraft.

Reply to post by Scott Cullen, on January 24, 2000 at 11:25:36:

You will need to use a diamond file if it has been induction hardened which many are now days. I
prefer to buy a new one and give the old one away.

Mark

Reply to post by Gerald, on January 24, 2000 at 11:25:36:

Fanno saws are made in the city where I work. I was told at their shop that this type of saw (called a turbo saw, made by another company, if I remember), while very good, is basically not designed to be resharpened. They said that they could do, perhaps, one touch-up sharpening. I store mine sheathed, don't lend it out, and reserve it mostly for finer cuts. I try to avoid using it anywhere near the ground, where soil can be splashed onto wood and that then can dull the saw. Now well-used, I find that it still cuts well, though more like a dulling razor compared to a new razor. Since the teeth are not canted outward, the outside edges leave a smoother cut. However, any tip dings can bend the teeth outward, creating drag and a somewhat rougher cut. It's a great saw for training cuts to young trees.

Reply to post by Gerald, on January 24, 2000 at 11:25:36:

After my first tri-cut blade got dull I bought the files to sharpen the saw. The saw was duller after my clumsy efforts. Since then, I have bought Fanno saws. This was not really a patriotic economic decision. The blades are strong and don't kink if the branch twists. When the blades are dull , I wrap them up and send them to the factory to be sharpened. This costs about $4.25 per blade with shipping if I remember right. Much better than $20 per blade for a new blade.

Tom

Reply to post by Tom Dunlap, on January 24, 2000 at 11:25:36:

I keep a small triangle file in the truck to touch up my hand and pole saw blades. I'l regularly set them in a vice and and sharpen them up. Takes about 2-3 min per blade & they fly through wood afterwards. after several such sharpenings, and the curf gets small, I'll take them to a local grinder and get a cut and set,$8/blade.

Reply to post by jps, on January 30, 2000 at 11:00:17:

Are you using a tricut or traditional tooth?

That would be a real bonus to havef a local that can sharpen tricuts.

I am assuming that everyone knows the difference, maybe I shouldn't...

Tom

Reply to post by Mark Hartley, on January 25, 2000 at 07:08:21:

Thanks for your input. I have been using saws purchased from Sherrill Inc. It is a Fanno. AM Leonard calls them turbo saws. I used one in my previous position and loved it for small tree pruning. My help are not as experienced and tend to use the saw in the dirt and etc. I was amazed the abuse it recieved. I purchased a cant file which I call a feather file. I have used this in previous position also. I was surprised to see in the Sherrill catalog that the cant file only sharpens conventional saws. Naturally my next question is what should I use. Sometimes trial and error is the best educational tool. My assistant is going to have to learn. Gerald