I've recently had occasion to take something >200 photos for project records and have had to devise an indexing scheme to key them to the trees and groups. It's pretty straight forward: roll # and frame #. Some of the wrinkles involve actually assigning the right #'s to the right image.

Here are a few of the things I've learned:

1) Loading. I usually load carefully and try to squeeze an extra frame or two out of a roll, by not advancing to #1 on the camera's counter before starting exposures. But, if your marking down exposure #'s they don't match counter #'s, you have to create an offset.

2) Developing. Whether your processor/printer prints a roll# and frame# on the back of each print seems quite variable. Some do, some don't. Also depends who's on duty. Some operators set the machine to do it, some don't. Sometimes you'll get frame# but not roll#. The ideal is to get both, keyed to the roll# sticker on the negative strip (talking 35MM here) and the envelope. Being able to specify that to an onsite or custom phot finishing shop is certainly worth a higher cost than a rock bottom, send em out, high volume processor. (But a time value on going back through and putting the two #'s manually on (x) sets of each print!) Also, get an index sheet.

3) Data printing cameras. There seems to be a range of what gets placed on the image. Most do date or maybe date and time. Frame# seems to be a special, higher cost option only on higher end cameras. Don't know about roll#. All seems unnecessary if you're careful about #2 above.

4) Digital media. Digital obviously makes all kinds if indexing and image tagging possible. But there still seem to be many advantage to photo film. Having the orig. neg as evidence of a non altered image is a big one. And the operator time (you?), printer time (you can't print anything else while your ink jet sets there grinding out 200 color images), photo quality paper expense and color ink expense seem to seriously outweigh the cost of traditional developing and printing, unless you really need image manipulation like inserted arrows or removed leaders, etc.

Reply to post by Scott Cullen, on August 30, 1999 at 07:09:39:

My thoughts-

First, always make the first shot of a crucial roll an index shot. Make a small card that you write the roll number and date on (an eraseable board is great for this), and shoot that with the first frame. This then gives you a starting point, although it will cost a frame. But if your work is that critical, and you are adept at squeezing out extra frames (I usually get 38 from a 36 roll), it is worth it.

Roll numbers- set up your own system to use consistently. I've been using the same system since 1981- two-digit year/dash/rolll #, then frame #- 99-358-13 1999, roll #358, frame 13. Every shot recorded and indexed. Don't use the processor's numbers- there's no sequence to them, and you can't read them at a glance in a box full of boxes. And don't forget to label every box/envelope of your pictures, on the outside.

You can get 1/4 x 2 inch labels for laser or ink jet printers, and simply print a series of peel-off labels, or just write them on. Hint: if you shoot slides, put the label on the side opposite the emulsion, and on the bottom of the slide. That way they will always be on top facing the back of the projector. Very handy when the tray gets dumped! (Been there, done that)

Don't use databack stamps unless you really need it for the date. It is distracting in images, and not really necessary in most cases, if you keep good records of your shots. Also, make absolutely sure if you do use a stamp that it is set correctly. I just got some photos for a case with trees in full leaf, stamped with a December date.

The better digital cameras can record extra data in several ways. Don't put too much in the shot itself, but record as much as you can as notes or extra info. Then make sure you know how to access it, and that it gets saved with the images on disk.

Reply to post by Russ Carlson, on August 30, 1999 at 07:09:39:

"My thoughts-
First, always make the first shot of a crucial roll an index shot. Make a small card that you write the roll number and date on (an eraseable board is great for this), and shoot that with the first frame. This then gives you a starting point, although it will cost a frame."

The erasable board is a great idea, I still have one with my scuba diving gear. It would eliminate the following problem: The day I was shooting these rolls it was windy and the paper I wrote the info on kept blowing away so I held it with my foot while shooting. The printer thought it was a loading frame randomly pointed at ground with lens cap off and did not print it on 2/3 rolls!

"But if your work is that critical, and you are adept at squeezing out extra frames (I usually get 38 from a 36 roll), it is worth it." There is the issue of camera counter not coinciding with frame#. But do you have to start with filed notes and adjust anyway?

"Roll numbers- set up your own system to use consistently. I've been using the same system since 1981- two-digit year/dash/rolll #, then frame #- 99-358-13 1999, roll #358, frame 13. Every shot recorded and indexed. Don't use the processor's numbers- there's no sequence to them, and you can't read them at a glance in a box full of boxes. And don't forget to label every box/envelope of your pictures, on the outside." When roll # is printed on back by processor it may be usable in addition to a personal scheme.

"You can get 1/4 x 2 inch labels for laser or ink jet printers, and simply print a series of peel-off labels, or just write them on." Thought about that, but if you need to label two (or more) sets of hundreds of prints, printing, peeling, sticking could take a couple of extra hours with the possibility of introducing error as compared to relying on the processor's printed data.

"Hint: if you shoot slides, put the label on the side opposite the emulsion, and on the bottom of the slide. That way they will always be on top facing the back of the projector. Very handy when the tray gets dumped! (Been there, done that)" 10-4

Reply to post by Scott, on August 30, 1999 at 23:15:36:

>>There is the issue of camera counter not coinciding with frame#. <<

On that, I make sure I always load the film the same way. In a 35mm camera, I engage the film leader, then advance by hand, turning the take-up spool until the sprocket engages both top and bottom of the film. Then close the back and advance with winder and shutter. I stop when the fram counter shows "0". So the first frame I shoot is "0" on the counter. Once I advance the film after that shot, the counters tells me "1 frame used". Works for me

Instead of printing labels, if you use print you can pass them through your printer, and put your data on the back. This can't be a whole lot less reliable than some of the stuff the processors send back. (a whole roll numbered "11"?)