I tend to have problems keeping the chain sharp when bucking up big stuff and capping off stumps.

I can get a 91 link chisle tooth standard chain for $12 & $8 to sharpen & guage(I'll feild sharpen it but I dont have time to knock down the depth guages). The carbide equvalent is $80 & $25.

How does carbide stand up to soil and foreign objects in a log? Is it worth the investment?

Reply to post by john S, on August 29, 1999 at 20:49:46:

early on in my business i decided to buy a tungsten carbide tipped chain to tackle all the "dirty" jobs thereby saving my other chains. i found that the carbide chain does keep its edge longer but that it still becomes dull and cannot be easily re sharpened . from my experience i would say it is not worth the extra expense for the added durability of the sharp edge.

Reply to post by john S, on August 29, 1999 at 20:49:46:

John, my quick math on your cost figures is:

You can own 6+:1 and sharpen 3:1 for the same money. Based on Mark's observation carbide's performance does not offset the cost advantage for the tough type of cutting you describe. Sounds like the deal is to rotate two or three sets of (x)chains through the sharpening shop, just swap dull for sharp in the field as needed. (Which is probably what you do anyway!)

Reply to post by john S, on August 29, 1999 at 20:49:46:

When I make butt cuts near dirt I get out my scrub brush to get as much dirt out as I can. Not always successful.

Having several chains is a good idea but for sharpening you HAVE TO get one of the Pferd sharpening tools. It is a file holder that has a flat file that takes down the depth gauges the correct amount everytime that you sharpen. Order the free video and you will be sharpening as good as the factory in no time. I have showed employees who have never used chainsaws how to sharpen and they do a fantastic job with this little tool. After three years I hvae just replaced the flat file in my large gauge. The one for my 3/8 LP chain is still good. The round files still wear out though.

http://www.forestapps.com/pferd/pferdtool.htm

Check this out.

Tom

Reply to post by Tom Dunlap, on August 29, 1999 at 20:49:46:

Thanks, I'l look into that, the shop i go to is a Pherd dealer. (They also got this Monster twoman saw in there that I might be able to use two or three times a year...)

Reply to post by Scott Cullen, on August 29, 1999 at 20:49:46:

Thanks Scott, even without Mark's testimonial I could not realy see them being worth it.

At the stihl dealer their a 4:1 differance, I had heard people talk abot them. I had to ask around if anyone would swear by carbide like the carpenters (tho skill saw blades are so ubiquiouse they toss em these days) do b4 writing it off.

I did'nt think to do the math on the cost from the other sorce prior to asking, I think theyld have to have diamond to last over six times longer . Add Tom's Pherd jig in there and I cant see experimenting.

Reply to post by Tom Dunlap, on August 29, 1999 at 20:49:46:

When I was checking out the "chain sharp" I saw a whetstone that fits over the bar to debur it, no more sliced fingers when I pm the bar b4 going home!

Reply to post by John S, on August 30, 1999 at 12:17:13:

When my bars get too big a burr I will lay them on the workbench and then use a fine flat file to deburr. Another method is to use a belt sander with a light touch. Then I will generally close the rails with the little gizmo with the two bearings.

Tom

Reply to post by mark lutherborrow, on August 29, 1999 at 20:49:46:

Did a project in the Mojave (Afton Canyon, 1980?) installing vehicle barriers. Had to cut 9 foot railroad ties in half. Figured in a carbide chain....it was a mistake. After a dozen ties it needed sharpening real bad, we only had three hundred more ties to cut. Two week turn around (on state contract). Round "chipper" chain worked great, 5-6 ties before a minor sharpening (3-4 licks per cutter) was needed. Oregon still lists "chipper" chain in .404.