Recently bought into a newer community that followed a scorched earth policy, remove
all trees and replant with smaller trees but I have the opportunity to transplant some
larger Live Oaks, possibly 3 trees that are 16’ -18’ overall height with an average spread
of 7’-8’ and a caliper of 4”-5”. These trees are scheduled to be plowed down in the next
month or so (middle of July) to make way for new construction and as I have access to a
backhoe/front-end loader would like to remove these trees and place in my property.
Any information that could be given to ensure that the trees have at least some chance of
survival would be helpful but I have the following questions:
1: As I live in sandy soil Florida how much of a root ball is necessary
2: Does time of transplant affect survival (early morning verses heat of day)
3: Amount of water new transplant needs weekly
4: Best way to secure these trees to prevent tipping over
5: Does any thinning of the branches need to be done

Reply to post by Douglas Vought, on May 17, 2001 at 11:07:38:

Recently bought into a newer community that followed a scorched earth policy, remove
all trees and replant with smaller trees but I have the opportunity to transplant some
larger Live Oaks, possibly 3 trees that are 16 to 18 feer overall height with an average spread
of 7 to 8 feet and a caliper of 4 to 5 inchesThese trees are scheduled to be plowed down in the next
month or so (middle of July) to make way for new construction and as I have access to a
backhoe/front-end loader would like to remove these trees and place in my property.
Any information that could be given to ensure that the trees have at least some chance of
survival would be helpful but I have the following questions:
1: As I live in sandy soil Florida how much of a root ball is necessary
2: Does time of transplant affect survival (early morning verses heat of day)
3: Amount of water new transplant needs weekly
4: Best way to secure these trees to prevent tipping over
5: Does any thinning of the branches need to be done

Reply to post by Douglas Vought, on May 17, 2001 at 11:07:38:

My first responce would be to say get proffesional help. Maybe a tree spade, the bigger the better.

I amin Wisconsin so live oak is not my specialty. many oak dont x-pant well and high temps will exasebate the problems.

But sice they will be toasted anyway, why not try.

1. As big a root ball as possible, sice the soil is sandy, you may want to trench around them and build a box around it, then drive pipes under to shore them up. This is the old fasion way.

2. Earlier in the year would have been better.

3. Maintain moist, not wet soil. Regularly spraying the canopy to reduce moisture loss has been shown to help in some cases.

4. Not all trees need staking, but use a flexible anchoring device on the tree, rubber bungee or cut inner tube, NOT wire in a hose, if you think it is unstable.

5. remove only those branches broken durring the move, use proper pruning techniques.

Reply to post by John Paul Sanborn, on May 17, 2001 at 11:10:09:

my experiance is that large oaks do not transplant well unless all possible tricks are used. The ISA has a tree transplant book with many good points. I have found that the only way to dig the root ball (esp. in sandy soil) is by hand making sure that the roots are cut cleanly without harassing the r. ball. A rooting hormone with a high concentration of ib acid and na acid applied to the freshly cut roots helps mucho. The tree should not be stressed fo water before starting - a good heavy watering 3 to 5 days before is best. Thin out smaller interior branches and odd exterior branches to shape tree before trans.as this will reduce water need and help compensate lost root system. Digging with a back hoe will loosen r ball and make for split roots increasing the poss. of root infections. I use burlap coffee bags and large nails to wrap r ball and then secure with chains or steel cable to lift and move tree. I hope this helps. STELLY

Reply to post by johnstelly, on May 17, 2001 at 18:14:55:

I disagree with the thinning of the inner canopy, this is needed by the tree especialy when the outer go semi dormant on hot days. Light trimming of outer canopy to remove banches that may break is a goo idea, but taking too many buds away will remove the hormones that encorage rooting. this being a long term thing that applying stimulant wont help.

I agree with evrything else, hand dig, hand cut, root stim... but once again, with the help of a pro. So much effort, so easy to do wrong...

If this is not an option due to time, I'ld still go with a big spade. Even though I think they are over used.