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| <Peter Torres>
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Reply to post by Kevin Dunigan, on January 23, 2000 at 01:07:19:
Try taking smaller trees, and more soil. Plant them in a mound, with wood chips covering it. Goodluck |
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| <Mark Goodwin>
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Reply to post by Kevin Dunigan, on January 23, 2000 at 01:07:19:
I thought you might like to see this information site. The Silvics site has a quantity of info for many trees, mostly forest trees native to the USA. http://willow.ncfes.umn.edu/silvics_manual/Volume_1/abies/procera.htm My experience with moving incense cedars has been that the smaller trees recover better and faster. Anything larger than three feet tall was more difficult. Try not using the treatment for "shock". Be sure there is not a drainage problem, and likewise that there is no water stress. Mulch to reduce water loss and moderate soil temp. If the trees were taken from dense cover, consider shading then from the worst sun exposure for the period of establishment. Good luck. |
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| <josh>
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Reply to post by Peter Torres, on January 23, 2000 at 01:07:19:
when transplanting established trees it is advisable to sever the roots in stages. eg. first year, cut half of the roots at a certain distance fromn the tree in three sections (like the shape of a radiation symbol), leaving the remaining sections to be cut the following year, when the tree will be uprooted. This should allow the tree some time to recover from the shock of root pruning. It may be that the soil at the two locations is very different or not as free draining and this could also reduce survival rates. |
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