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| <James Causton> |
Reply to post by Rob Roy, on April 08, 2002 at 21:49:38: 5 feet in diameter??? Are you talking about the outside of the foliage, or are you referring to trunk dia.?? As far as removing them is concerned, it is only a tough job if you do it yourself, the alternative is comparably expensive, James. | ||
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| <Stephen Wiley> |
Reply to post by Rob Roy, on April 08, 2002 at 21:49:38: Rob, From your post their are some questions which would be best answered by an on-site analysis performed by a qualified arborist. I would recommend a visual examination of your plants for structural, health, and soil conditions before you proceed with further maintenance. Since the [hedge] was cut prior to your ownership it is vital to know what diameter the main stem was cut back too. Additionally, the open topped cuts will have been susceptible to airborne pathogens, and insects which may carry other pathogens. Are the shrubs around the house a different variety of cedar from the tree/hedge? Identification of these plants will determine if their crowns can be reduced. Rob, unfortunately survival of pruning cuts cannot be determined in one year. Since you stated you hope for survival, do yourself a favor by hiring an arborist, as I stated above. It will take out the guess work and be present during the examination as you will find it educational and inspirational (Some of my clients responses). Another advantage is the consultant will advise you on: the amount of effort and pruning procedures needed. Remember the phrase: "try it ya'll like it" ! and "Don't put the cart before the horse" ! A list of consulting arborist can be found by: contacting your local chapter of the International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) or American Society of Consulting Arborists. Links to these organizations can be found by clicking on Arboriculture Links on this site. Take good care, Steve | ||
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| <Russ Carlson> |
Reply to post by Rob Roy, on April 08, 2002 at 21:49:38: I'll add my 2 cents here. I suspect the plants are arborvitae, white cedar. These are commonly used as tall hedges, and are ideally suited for that. First, the hedge. Cutting it back severely at the top Will not likely kill this tree. They are very slow to regrow new growth on older branches, though. The foliage grows as a shell around the outside, leaving the inside rather bare of foliage. New sprouts don't develop well, so it will take years for the tops to fill in, if at all. New growth from existing twigs around the edges of the bare area will grow out, and may eventually cover the bare spots. Second, removal of the other overgrown shrubs. This can be a tough job if you don't have the right tools. the stumps will prove to be the hardest part. If you want to do the job yourself, cutting the tops out is not too hard. Consider cutting the stumps to ground level and burying them under soil or mulch, and leaving them to rot. Youcan plant along side them if you want. The best way to get the stumps out (short of a few sticks of dynamite, which tends to concern the neighbors) is to grind them with a stump grinding machine. Many arborists have this equipment available. You can rent them, but these can be VERY DANGEROUS machines, and should not be used without training. Find a good local company to do this job for you. It may not be all that expensive. Follow the link below to the Tech Report pages on this site, and select the Stump Removal topic for more information. | ||
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| <Guy Meilleur> |
Reply to post by James Causton, on April 08, 2002 at 21:49:38: Good words so far, but 2 more cents; Restorative pruning is often an option that works for trees and shrubs. True, old "cedars" (identify the plant-first!) aren't the most responsive, but they still may have the potential of serving their original purpose. "Topping" an overgrown hedge is often the first impulse, and almost always has disastrous consequences, leading to a high-maintenance plant if not a permanently misshapen one. If the stubs in the middle don't green up, cutting them way back and training the side branches toward the middle with ties is an option. www.plantamnesty.org was founded to provide information on malpruning and how to correct it. They may have something on reshaping those foundation plants. Next time, the owner should understand the plant's natural habit and consider working with that before anyone touches a tool. | ||
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| <Mark Goodwin> |
Reply to post by Rob Roy, on April 08, 2002 at 21:49:38: Another thought: Before you replant with the same kind of plant in the same location, consider the intended function of the plant, the planting area characteristics, and future maintenance. There may be better alternative choices in plant material (best plant for the location/use). Or you may be able to change the planting area so that plants will not crowd house, etc. when fully grown, thus eliminating the need to maintain for size. Careful thought beforehand, with good advice, can save a lot of work and expense in the long run. It's always important to know exactly what plant you are dealing with, so you can get the right information about it. | ||
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| <James Causton> |
Reply to post by Guy Meilleur, on April 08, 2002 at 22:26:35: Great, thanks for the posting of "Plant Amnesty's" URL. Finally we are getting the word out across the world. Come to the ISA National in Seattle this year, if Cass is around and you buy me a beer, I will personally introduce you James | ||
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| <shawn> |
Reply to post by James Causton, on April 08, 2002 at 21:49:38: James you jackass 5 feet in diameter ....what do you think..duhhhhh | ||
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