When is the best time to prune and what is the way to do it.

Reply to post by Randy Bernard, on May 30, 2003 at 21:20:09:

I suppose you mean the tree is 3 years in the ground?
First, are you sure it is a 'Bradford' and not some other cultivar of pear?

'Bradford' is generally more resistant to fire blight than other pear cultivars, which is a plus. Unfortunately this tree also has a bad reputation for having crowded branch attachments that often lead to the tree splitting apart later.
I think it may be a combination of nursery production practices and natural tendencies of co-dominant & crowded branching, along with serious lack of corrective training that results in so many tree failures.
When trees are headed in the nursery they respond by producing many branches close together below the heading cut. And when all the lower branches are routinely stripped from the trunk below head height in the nursery, the trunk doesn't develop taper as well as it might otherwise. A top heavy tree acting as a big wind sail can easily topple over with roots torn, or fracture in the trunk.

To ward off these problems, it is always best to find good nursery stock. Look for good trunk taper, well-spaced lateral branches, and a dominant central leader.
During the first couple of years in the ground, pruning should be limited to any dead, damaged branches, and those that are crowding other better-spaced branches. Once the tree's roots are established, pay close attention to what will be permanent structural branches. Branches that are going to be permanent need to be spaced vertically and radially so that they are not directly above or right next to each other. It's also good if they are not at the same level directly opposite each other. As they expand in width, you don't want them to develop included bark between them. Main branches can eventually be up to 6 or 8 inches in diameter, so plan accordingly. You also don't want the branches to be as large as the trunk where they are attached. Try to decide which branches need to be removed well before they are larger than 2 inches. Any branch that forks narrowly into two equal-size branches should be reduced to only one. Branches that threaten to overtake the central leader can be subdued.
Eventually the tree's central leader will lose its dominance, but by then the main side branches will have developed.
Continue to correct structural problems anytime they reappear, especially co-dominant forks, but also vigorous branches that rub or cross back into the center. Dormant pruning in late winter is a good time to be able to see the branches clearly. Minor pruning can be done in June or July in dry weather, especially if branches develop excessive end weight or are too low. Avoid pruning in the Spring or Fall or in wet weather. If ever you suspect fire blight in pear trees, practice sanitation measures.
Avoid pruning more than 25% of the foliage from any branch that is to be retained, or 25% of the total tree foliage in any one season. Make branch removal cuts to the branch collar. Make reduction cuts to a lateral. Avoid stubs and heading cuts. Undercut first so that bark does not tear. I wouldn't use wound paint.